Climbing is a very specialized sport. Whether it's rock climbing or mountain climbing, free or with ropes, the physical and mental strength required is substantial. Successful climbing requires a combination of power, strength, flexibility, and endurance -- yet strength rather than bulk is likely to be more relevant. Upper body, core, and lower body fitness is essential. Mountaineers and big wall climbers can spend days on the walls of mountains. Indoor climbing is also becoming a popular sport.
Weight training or resistance training, used intelligently, can promote and enhance these athletic characteristics. Because all athletes have individual needs, a generic program like the one that follows will need to be modified for style, age, goals, and facilities available. However, here's a weights program, starting out, that you can use to set yourself up for climbing adventures or competition.
General Preparation
The general preparation phase should provide all-round muscle and strength conditioning. If you prepare on a seasonal basis, this would be used in the early pre-season. If you do not have 'seasons,' then just progress through the training phases in sequence.
As a general rule, and for all the following program phases, you will be better off not climbing after a strenuous weight training session. Recover full strength before climbing, for safety reasons.
Frequency - 2 to 3 sessions per week for 8 to 10 weeks
Type - general conditioning
Exercises - 9 exercises, 3 sets of 10 to 12, plus warm-up and cool-down in the Basic Strength and Muscle program. (I favor the Romanian type deadlift rather than full deadlift in this program.)
Rest between sets - 30-90 seconds
Specific Preparation
In this phase, you will focus more on the development of strength and power. This is the period, later pre-season, leading up to the start of competition.
Frequency - 2 to 3 session per week, 4 to 6 weeks
Type - strength and power
Exercises - 5 sets of 6: Romanian deadlift, incline bench press, hang power clean, pullups, squats -- plus combo crunches at 3 sets of 10 to 12
Rest between sets - 3-5 minutes, crunches, 1-2 minutes
Competition Phase
The aim of this phase is the maintenance of strength and power. Ring training and competition should dominate. Prior to the start of competition, take 7-10 days break from heavy weights work at the end of Specific Preparation while maintaining your ring work. Weight training in the competition phase should play essentially a maintenance role.
Frequency - 1 to 2 sessions per week
Type - power; lighter loads and faster execution than in the specific preparation phase
Exercises - 3 sets of 10, rapid concentric movement, 40% to 60% of 1RM. Squats, hang clean, Romanian deadlift. Crunches.
Rest between sets - 1-2 minutes
Aerobic Conditioning
Climbing for hours and even days, requires stamina, endurance and aerobic fitness. Climbers should run or cycle for this type of fitness. A regular run is a crucial training element for increasing aerobic fitness and endurance, especially for those who spend long hours on big walls and mountains, some at high altitude. Distance run should be between 6 and 8 kilometres at moderate pace for four or five days each week. Longer endurance training should be avoided to minimize muscle loss and conversion of fiber type from fast to slow.
Circuit training in the gym will also provide aerobic conditioning.
Summary
- Be sure to warm up prior to weight training.
- Don't train through serious injuries, acute or chronic.
- Don't sacrifice a climbing session for a weights session -- unless you're treating or recovering from an injury with weights work. "Climbing" is the primary skill you need to practise.
- If you have a knowledgeable strength and conditioning coach, be guided by him or her regarding the details of your program.
- Take at least a few weeks off at the end of the season to recover after a hard season of training and climbing.
- If you're new to weight training, read up on the fundamentals before you start.
